There’s certainly no denying the heritage of Parisian restaurant Kinugawa; the Japanese cuisine has been drawing the great and the good for 30 years and that looks a dead cert to continue with chef Ozuru, formerly of Meiji and Nobu Paris, helming the kitchen following a takeover last year. New owners Code Black decided on a fresh new direction for the venue, and that’s where Paris architects Gilles & Boissier came in, and the result is an arresting if somewhat challenging dining environment that will divide opinion like a skilfully wielded hocho knife.

There is a clear distinction between the interactive elements of the dining room (floor, tableware, seating) and the décor of the walls and pillars, the former being a shade or two lighter, even colourful at times, while the latter are almost uncompromisingly harsh. Swirling textured two-tone amorphous patterns sensually surround the diner, cut through with honeycombs, edges and cracked reflective surfaces which add further visual interest. Razor sharp.