You know what it’s like – Monday morning, suffering the aftermath of a good weekend, and someone starts telling you about the food at their new restaurant using nonsensical phrases like “traditionally modern” and you feel yourself getting a bit stabby?

Luckily, the interior designers of Pisacco in Milan saved me from several years sewing number plates at Her Majesty’s Pleasure with their original, fun and yet slightly twisted look. A veteran of more than 350 venues including some A-list retail names, Vudafieri Saverino is the firm giving some Italian elan to the restaurant, which veers from understated (unvarnished floors, simple dining chairs) to the in-your-face mural by artist Gabriella Ciancimino in the stairwell which extends along the upper wall. She’s created a herb and flower garden with more edge than a steak knife, complete with a mohican punk strutting along and a blood-red poppy that complements the seat covers.

Now I’ve cheered up, I feel able to tell you that Pisacco also serves traditionally modern food using fresh and seasonal ingredients without ego or pretension and with minimal intervention. As opposed to stale, out-of-season, overly fussy and overcooked food then…