This Chinese restaurant in Berlin sparked a bit of debate at We Heart HQ, purely down to its name, The Long March. Yes okay, it’s inspired by the quite beautiful propaganda artwork on the walls, prop-art which is now considered pop-art – but is there any need to shove war down people’s throats before diners have even walked through the door? I submit there is not, especially in Berlin; the über-Ed likes his provocative irony, but since I’m doing the writing, I’ll have my little moan. All that aside, if you’re comfortable chewing over the bloody subjugation of billions then the rest of The Long March is a dazzler in the very darkest sense of the word.
Once you pass through the eerie UV-blue entrance, black walls and tables go with the black irony, creating a light-sucking canvas against which certain carefully-chosen features shine. Clever lighting placement ensure you can see what you’re eating – forks of illumination pierce the ambient darkness which is only a few candelas above midnight thunderstorm. Located in the super-hip Kreuzberg district, Long March Canteen is the product of design house ett la benn, who have done a special job. Old carved wood signage and weaved bamboo partitions are other notable little wins in their overall victory.