Coming from a place with such a big reputation, former NOMA chef Tom Sellers’ first permanent solo venture is a modestly-sized affair. Perhaps, though, the 42-cover limit of Restaurant Story will prove to be one of the keys to success, increasing exclusivity while keeping initial costs down. The interior certainly doesn’t shout and wave its arms around; this is all about understatement and refinement, with blonde wood and slate-grey brickwork and flooring.
What’s the food like? To be honest we were with the rest of the oiks with our noses pressed to the glass of Restaurant Story’s windows on Tooley Street, London. Already booked solid until the end of June (because that’s when the booking system cuts off – you suspect it would be fully full for many months more if it was possible), Tom can stop worrying about whether his restaurant is going to be a success and start worrying about where to put all his money. This is a Story with a happy beginning, at least, and there’s no reason to suspect a dastardly plot-twist any time soon.