Manger gets two ticks in the We Heart book, one for the look of the Paris restaurant, and one for the fact that it’s getting people back into work, and heaven knows we need more of that. How is it fighting the good fight against unemployment? Well, Manger is the brainchild of Thierry Monassier, the chairman of a charity which employs disadvantaged workers from government schemes by using the profits from a special “chef’s dinner” section on the menu. If you’re up on your cheffing, you might recognise the names Michel Trama, Yannick Alléno, Christophe Michalak, and Pierre Gagnaire, who have all promised to design and oversee one of these special meals. Good show.

As to the design of the place, that’s the work of architect Marie Deroudilhe, who reflected the spirit of inclusion in putting the kitchen at the heart of things, alternating between openings and glass partitions – to stop diners getting harmed in the making of their dishes, sensibly. The grey fishscale wallpaper works especially well with the steely silver backed photographs, and the matte black and cream throughout is a classy touch. Fine dining in a fine environment with good intentions. Top stuff.

Photography, Thomas Duval