My belly does a little line dance to itself upon reading The Lockhart’s new menu: catfish goujons, shrimp & grits and dirty rice with crab. Images of Louisiana-sunsets, bottles of hot sauce and lazy days appear as if by magic. Lead by Mississippi-born ex-Brooklynite Brad McDonald, the offerings promise refined Deep South fare with innovative twists. Slightly unfamiliar with the concept, the dishes presented an exciting proposition. This was not going to be that buttermilk shrimp shack with a side of corn type of restaurant.
In the pursuit of feeding my curiosity, and dancing belly, I found myself on Seymour Place, a quaint little road, just off London’s Oxford Street down by Marble Arch. Glass-fronted Lockhart is spacious and divided into three parts: a large main area – graced with low lighting, solid-wood floors, brick and plaster walls with subtle decoration – a tall booth facing the small open kitchen towards the back, and a more intimate vibe downstairs with the bar. We have front row seats for the kitchen.
Our waitress was knowledgeable, friendly, we had heard about their Mezcal and cactus-infused cocktails so she recommended the potent smoke & mirrors, containing the Mexican drink; while the cactus cosmo contained the spiky plant extracts. Both refreshing, original, and much less try-hard than I had expected.
Photo © We Heart
Getting us in the mood, we sample their homemade sweet bacon loaf – served with runny salty butter the flavours define mouth-watering. If I was this excited about these, I could hardly wait for what was to come. Our first dish, the ‘catfish goujons’ with ‘creole remoulade’ was divine. The fish steaming hot and encased in a super fine semolina breadcrumb for that extra gritty crunch. The remoulade that the goujons sat upon complex, spicy and refreshing. We request for more bread to mop up the rest. Later we sample ‘catfish gumbo’ and ‘dirty rice with brown crab’. I loved the stew-like gumbo, or – as I’d like to call it: a delicious little fire engine with citrusy heat. It contained a whole host of complementing ingredients including rice, spring onion, okra, chilli and a whole lot more! Wholesome, healthy, not what I’d expected at all.
On a cheery recommendation from our waitress, and matching this fiery little feast, was a generous glass of Dry Creek Chenin Blanc which sings in harmony with the fish – offering a welcome creamy softness and aroma that soothes the dish’s peppery side. For entrée (or main, as we like to call it) we tried the ‘stuffed & glazed quail’. It was the cutest dish I’d laid eyes on, stuffed with a rice concoction that made the little bird all full and busty. Perfect with its sweet glaze and greens.
It’s not just McDonald’s take on good home-town cooking that works at The Lockhart, but a strong sense of innovation and thoughtful handling of ingredients. Presentation-wise, each dish was served in simple earthenware bowls that brought out the rich tones of the ingredients. The unfussy little extras (think colourful vintage side plates arranged on random walls) add character to a clean space. Old Grandma’s house came to mind; charm and flavour, something The Lockhart has in abundance.
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Photo © We Heart
Photo © We Heart
Photo © We Heart
