Hidden in the quiet heart of rural Spain, La Torre del Visco Hotel offers unrivalled luxury and adventures walking in a shepherd’s footsteps across the ancient Aragonese landscape that once inspired Picasso…
In the early 20th century, Picasso’s socks were knocked off by some rocks; the rugged Roques de Benet in Spain’s magical Matarranya region. Beyond the majestic massif that sparked Cubism, by the river where a young Pablo learned to swim, in the idyllic landscape that inspired his sketches of shepherds, lies La Torre del Visco.
Once described by Condé Nast as “the most isolated hotel in Europe” and widely regarded as one of the most romantic, La Torre is a hidden haven steeped in history and a couple’s love story.
We are here to join the hotel’s seasonal ‘transhumance’ experience, an ancient practice of moving livestock between cool mountain grazing and milder lowland meadows. We’ll wander across untouched valleys and ancestral paths where the ancient kingdoms of Aragón, Catalunya and Valencia meet. And find out if following the herd and shouting “Hey!” at 200 sheep is as fun as it sounds. (It is.)
But first, La Torre del Visco. This is a class act, offering the level of gastronomy and service you’d expect from a Relais & Châteaux property. Bordered by the river Tastavins, the labyrinthine 15th century estate is surrounded by mountains and its own 90-hectare farm of olive and almond groves. Wonderfully secluded, it’s no wonder its attracts those seeking refuge from the modern world — including royalty — since it opened in 1994,
La Torre is helmed by Jemma Markham, who’s been growing her own organic produce and making her own olive oil for the hotel’s Michelin Green Star restaurant, El Visco, long before this sort of thing was fashionable.
In the nineties, Jemma and her husband Piers traded their 20-year publishing careers in Madrid to transform a rundown ‘masia’ (rural house) in the countryside. Eager to escape the growing commercial pressures of the industry, they set out to find land to build a farm. Guided only by a hand-drawn map decorated with sketches of wild boars, mountains, grapes and rivers, they instinctively gravitated toward the tranquil Teruel within the untamed beauty of the lesser-known Matarranya. Before the region even had a name.
The Markham family’s personal photos of the semi-ruined estate that would become their La Torre del Visco.
One autumn evening, they stumbled upon a charming village with a Gothic castle and knew they had found something special. Just a few minutes from Valderrobres, considered one of Spain’s most beautiful villages, La Torre del Visco was then just a semi-ruined estate owned by a local surgeon with a farming hobby.
“I remember coming down this interminable 5.5km dirt track and thinking, this place has a good feeling. As you round the last corner, the valley opens up. It felt romantically remote — the chemistry was right.”
The couple began restoring the property by clearing the land, planting 70 varieties of roses and 2,000 olive trees – which later earned them organic certification – and collaborating with local villagers. “We also brought stonemasons from Somerset. My sister went to the local pub in Shepton Mallet and asked if anyone wanted to go to Spain to help!”
What began as a space for friends evolved into a plan for a simple hotel, and then something more. “It would be egotistical not to share this view,” Jemma explains. “Our whole pleasure has always been in having others enjoy the beauty of the place.”
After Piers’ passing in 2013, Jemma continued evolving the ultimate doer-upper into a beloved destination for gastronomes, artists and nature lovers. Today, La Torre is a sanctuary for those seeking peace and a slower, more mindful pace. “Once you arrive, you’re in a bubble where time doesn’t matter,” Jemma says, leading us through rose gardens and hidden courtyards, past a couple of tortoises perched on lily pads and a snoozing Labrador named Aslan – into Narnia.
It’s easy to lose oneself in the romantic mix of trees, ponds and shady corners. “Not everyone discovers all the gardens,” Jemma muses. “It depends on how curious you are.”
This intuitive design ethos extends to the inviting communal spaces, which balance mediaeval and modern elements with traditional Arab influences and playful touches. A ballet dancer flashes her knickers from a canvas in the dining room – a stable conversion featuring solid stone columns and carefully selected artworks that range from profound to whimsical. “We didn’t want to create an historically staid Parador style,” Jemma adds.
The 16 rooms are impeccably curated yet effortlessly elegant, featuring thick rugs and hand-painted tiles sourced from antique collectors. There are no televisions to break the spell of birdsong and running water. All suites have their own sitting rooms with fireplaces, making this a perfect all-season escape. Jemma personally selects the art and creates the fresh flower arrangements throughout the hotel, insisting, “Never has a ‘gladdie’ crossed the threshold!”
A climb up the hill reveals an incredibly private pool overlooking the valley. Here, a couple lounges, alone except for a friendly fox. In this wonderland, it wouldn’t surprise me if the animals talk as soon as we’re out of earshot.
A friendly fox is the only being to disrupt our solitude.
When you do something well, it seems effortless. The heart of the hotel is its acclaimed El Visco Restaurant, awarded a Michelin Green Star in 2023 for its dedication to locally sourced ingredients and sustainable gastronomy. The daily-changing menu celebrates the hotel’s farm-to-table philosophy, featuring seasonal dishes and foraged finds from their organic farm, the day’s catch from the nearby coast and the finest cuts of meat from local producers. Think pasture-to-plate dining in a palace.
I highly recommend replicating our first night at La Torre del Visco. Start with something special from the mediaeval cellar and watch dusk descend over the terrace. After the sun sets, dine on Teruel’s famed jamón, tender lamb and vegetables drizzled with freshly pressed olive oil, followed by an Aragonese cheeseboard.
Then, curl up by the firepit for a digestif under a starlit sky, or sink into a sofa in the salon with a nightcap. Perhaps immerse yourself in a novel, play chess or the piano.
The next morning, we discover the soul of La Torre in its cocina abierta, dubbed the ‘Talking Kitchen’, as guests can ask the chefs about methods and ingredients, for a deeper connection with their dishes. “Anything we don’t nurture here is sourced from trusted local artisans within strict guidelines from the Slow Food Movement,” Marta, who has been with La Torre for 20 years, explains. “We serve breakfast until 12 because here, there’s no rush.”
Around a communal table, eight of us gather over freshly baked rosemary bread and home-cooked tortillas. Our joyous group includes a Dutch girl on a wellness retreat, a Spanish actress, a couple from Zaragoza and a Catalan gentleman who designs Barcelona’s Christmas displays. It seems apt meeting Father Christmas as ‘Visco’ means mistletoe in the local dialect. We swap numbers, half-joking about starting an elf side hustle. A ceramic Remy, the Ratatouille rat, surveys the scene with approval from a tall dresser.
Esteve Simón and his ‘dispensa’.
In the allotment, Esteve Simón, La Torre’s Van Morrison-loving gardener, guides us around his dispensa (organic pantry), teaching us about regenerative practices and companion planting. I ask him for advice on dealing with the snails devouring our plants back home. “There are no bad animals on this planet,” he muses. “They regenerate the earth. We don’t need to bother them – just guide them onto another path.”
Feeling zen, it’s time to set off on our pastoral pilgrimage with local shepherd Fernando Robres, his trusty sheepdog Nevada and 200 sheep. Donning the hotel’s straw hats to shield us from the sun, we amble through rolling greenery and mediaeval villages. Many hilltop hermitages remain abandoned, reminding us of the region’s storied history.
Agrarian Spain is rich in both tradition and environmental stewardship. As wildfires become more frequent, moving livestock becomes crucial in managing brush and protecting the land. Fernando shares meaty insights into how these time-honoured methods help build resilience in a changing climate. “Sheep eat the grass and, well, return nutrients to the soil,” he chuckles.
Each shepherd has a unique call to his flock, highlighting the deep bond between herdsmen and their animals. “These sheep have a happy life,” Fernando assures us. After hollering “Hey!” a lot, we’re treated to lunch at perhaps the world’s most picturesque picnic spot – a winery with sweeping views of the valley. As we share jamón, chorizo and lamb, it becomes clear: we should know where our food comes from.
This experience offers more than just picturesque scenery. In an age of factory farming, transhumance offers a compelling alternative that keeps the countryside – and its traditions – alive. It’s an insight into an integrated ecosystem where biodiversity thrives thanks to traditional practices like shepherding and seasonal eating. “If you knew what industrial meat production involved, you’d never eat it again,” Jemma adds.
Back at the hotel library, with a collection of more than 2,000 books, Jemma shares her ongoing efforts to preserve the pristine environment of the Matarranya, ensuring that future generations can experience its unspoilt beauty. La Torre has implemented initiatives to create local jobs, minimise environmental impact and promote sustainable agriculture. “If anybody truly wants to make something work, they will,” she reflects. “That’s always been my instinct.”
Beyond walking with sheep and cows (the latter in a three-day transhumance experience), the hotel offers myriad ways to connect with nature and Mediterranean gastronomy, from cookery courses and garden tours to horse riding, wild swimming, mountain biking, birdwatching and stargazing – it is the first Relais Châteaux in Spain to receive Hotel Starlight certification from the UNESCO-backed Starlight Foundation.
Like Fernando’s black sheep that helps him keep track of his flock, La Torre del Visco stands out as uniquely, wonderfully itself. It’s a place to disconnect, recharge and fall in love with the simple pleasures of life. Just don’t call Matarranya the ” Tuscany of Spain”, a label the media has latched onto. The region is untouched by mass tourism. “Spain is much rougher around the edges. It’s not manicured – and all the better for it” Jemma says with a wink.
One thing is certain: we will be baaaa-ck. (Sorry.)
Photography © Lisa Goldapple / courtesy Hotel La Torre del Visco.
